To Timbuktu and back again....

Well once again the limitations of Internet access has imited the ability to post an entry, but here goes....

I finished the last post in Burkino Faso with riots in Quagodogou and then on to Bobo-dilasi which was a much more laid back place and felt more french colonial (my lack of french is showing through big time) The old village there was the epitomy of the mud construction towns and is still populated in the same manner as it has been since the 1400s (the smell from the open seweres proves it :-) The mud mosque was a good 700 years old but frankly as they they rebuild the mud houses every year it is not quite the same building :-) Was able to get on the roof and have a look at how they are built, very cool (and it was! at least 5 to10 degrees cooler in side than outside). Bobo is known for it's sacrifical ponds where they sacrifice chickens etc to the fish that live in it. mind "live" is a relative term as frankly the river was more open sewer than a fish pond; how they survive is anyones guess (can you say "cholera waiting to happen!")

From Bobo it was off to the Mali border for what (for Africa) was a quick transfer, it only took about 4-5 hrs to get across the border! Every official wants to prove their importance by scrutinising the documentation as often and as slowly as possible. but finally we were in Mali!!

First stop was D'jenne (ponounced "jenny") to see the largest mud structure in the world! The Mud mosque in D'jenne as well as the Monday market. Unfortunately being a tourist in Mali seems to equate to "please try to rip me off as soon and as often as possible please" as the touts and the prices being quoted for things are just silly money. I was quoted over 250 dollars for some thing bought for about 30. So haggling is thename of the game (it gets a little tiring I must admit)

FRom D'jenne it was on to one of the highlights heading to Timbuktou!! rather driving the excellent multilane highway to timbuktou (if you believe that may i sell you this wonderfull twareg knife) we went to old way. Sailing up the Niger river fro, Mopti (actually the river is so low at the moment that we needed to start 75k further up and even then we were grounded several times)
the Niger river is not what I expected and for the most part is huge! easily a good 300m wide but only about 1-2m deep (in rainy season it gets to a almost 2km wide in some places.
Actually crusing up the river was a very cool way to get there and actually very relaxing just watching the West Africn world sail by(the river runs up to the Sahara desert and then heads back down to the gulf) we had a local cook who travelled with us and we camped ashore each night. But if any one says that it will be pleasntly warm at night in the desert§ DO NOT believe them!!! it was freezing at night and I was very pleased for the artic sleeping bacg I brought with me (45-50 degrees during the day (degrees at night!)

After 3 solid days of puttering up the river we came to the docks for the final 10km stretch to Timbuktou. Frankly it isnot really anything to write home about and has definitely seen better days. The place if teaming withTwareg who will happily pester you to buy something at outragious prices before they need to head back to the desert with their caravans;

"My Friend, My Friend! look here I have special Twareg artifacts for you"
>>"I'm in the toilet!"
"My Friend, My Friend! Special price - do not tell others...."
>>"Go away!"
"My Friend, My Friend! is twareg symbol/is twareg hat/is twareg necklace/is twareg ......"

you get the picture......

But I did weaken and probably spent way to much but hey how often do you get to Timbuktou???

Because I was not able to do the Mauritania/Morroco legs of the trip I splashed out on a camel trek into the desert to watch the sunset (a 2hr trip out into the desert).

NOT!

Our Twareg camel caravan had other ideas! We got about 500m from town when camels down and....

"My Friend, My Friend! is twareg symbol/is twareg hat/is twareg necklace/is twareg ......"

yet once again it was the hard sell! Once they relised we were not buying it was an hour & half wait for the sun to set then 15mins by camel back again. needless to say we had discussions on the price (orginally about 20USD but we ended up paying somewhat less) and they will never be used by Dragoman again. So they lost out there!

Having got to Timbukto the nice way, the return was via the road from hell but surprisingly we only had to dig the truck out once as it buried itself in the sand.Howevey we did have to come tothe rescue of a 4-wheel drive who had been going to fast and managed to shred a tire.

Now back in Severe getting ready for the trek to the Dogons tomorrow. next update on my return...